Tiny Little Explosions

Elementary school playgrounds are insulated little Darwinian feeding grounds. Big kids pick on not-so-big kids who pick on littler kids who absolutely terrorize the smallest kids. This is the way things are.

My mom was a teacher’s assistant and recess aide for years. She had this saying for those kids at the bottom of the pecking order, who would inevitably come to her in tears at the unfairness of the world. “You know what, Tiny Tim?” she’d say, meeting them at eye level, a master of rhetorical questions. “Dynamite comes in small packages.”

This is true in the culinary world, too. The biggest pops of flavor and ingenuity often come in a restaurant’s smallest packages. And because they can’t stand up for themselves, it’s time we stand up for small plates.

We talk about meal anticipation in terms of the entrées we’re excited to try. It’s a culture-wide thing. “I’m going to have the steak.” “I’m doing the seared ahi.” The whole concept of the dinner salad is an attempt to make an appetizer feel like an entrée.

It’s ridiculous.

Why not just make dinner for two a couple of glasses of wine and four appetizers? It’s a hell of a time, and you can usually get a broad sampling of the most inventive food a place has to offer. We certainly did. — LUKE BAUMGARTEN

VINTAGES at 611
You walk into Vintages and the dining room spreads out in front of you. Wide and comfortably modern — clean lines mash with comfy booth seating and Pottery Barn-ish bric-a-brac — the eye is naturally drawn to the cozier, lower lounge section at the back. Shoot for that.

The dining section looks inviting, as does the entrée selection (high brow but undemandingly priced), but the lounge won’t take no for an answer. “Get back here, you surly old bastard!” it screams. “Come have a sit.”

And when you do, please try the appetizers. They’re uniformly adventurous takes on well-loved standards.

The king crab cakes ($9) were cheesy and nicely prepared — crisp outside, pillowy within. The roasted pepper aioli gave it a little heat, and a citrusy drizzle added brightness and sharpness to the deep, rich flavors of crab and cheese and roasted pepper.

Satays are easier to come by in the culinary world than salads with feta and candied walnuts — that’s not fair, nothing’s as prevalent as greens, feta and walnuts — but they’re hot. The beef satay with lemongrass soy ($9) at Vintages does several things notably well. The soy marinade isn’t overly salty, and the lemongrass gives an incredible kick of tartness to perfectly grilled (medium, very tender) steak strips. With the vinegar-y Asian slaw, julienned into toothsome strips, it’s a fantastic pair.

Even the blandest thing we tried, the baked cheese and seafood avocado ($9), was fun to eat. The baked blob of shrimp, crab and cheese was drizzled with a balsamic reduction and sat atop a half-avocado, molded to look like the avocado’s missing half. The pit had also been replaced by more chopped seafood. We would have liked something a little more bold, though, to play off the wonderful creaminess of the avocado.

The best thing about Vintages is that their small plates encourage you to play with your food. The brie with homemade gingersnaps and caramel ($8), garnished with blueberries, strawberries and a berry (rasp- maybe?) reduction is a delight to mix and match. Top the warm, slightly soft gingersnaps with brie, caramel and strawberry for a wonderfully creamy, sweet tartness. Substitute blue- for straw- and get a subtle variation on the same palate combination.

Before you know it, the evening’s gone, you’ve drained your wine, and you’ve had a full-on discussion about a dozen different gustatory combinations. Try doing that with a couple entrees. (LB)

Vintages, 611 E. 30th Ave., is open Tue-Thu, 11 am-10 pm; Fri-Sat, 11 am-midnight (closed Sun-Mon). Reservations recommended. Call 624-3202.

OISHII
Probably long before the Spanish were talking tapas, older cultures served small plates in communal dining settings, forerunners to the Chinese dim sum or Japanese sushi. Although sushi  is vastly different here than in Japan, the American sushi experience gave Oishii an ideal steppingstone to small plates.

Co-owner and chef Junior Solis opened Oishii in 2006, tucked into 300 square feet of serving area while sharing ownership and kitchen space with Café Trinity. When that went south earlier this year, Solis saw an opportunity to reinvent Oishii nearby in a former hotel/speakeasy (hence the gangster theme). He expanded on his trademark saketinis (sake martinis), as well as his essentially Japanese finger foods.

The new menu includes artisan samplers like olives in balsamic reduction ($8), cheese and fruit with tapenade, caviar and flatbreads ($16) — quick for the kitchen to whip up while you wait for the rest of your meal. More extensive tapas include cider-poached prawns ($13) and black pepper-cured pork tenderloin ($15). “When you don’t know what to do with your money,” invites the menu, try Godfather’s Tapas, such as seared foie gras with huckleberry gastric ($34 plate) or market-priced caviar.

And then there’s the sushi — more specifically nigiri, sashimi, rolls, tempura and even Hawaiian poke. Typically cut into pieces, sushi is ideal for sharing or for experimenting. And for the ultimate experiment, order a sushi assortment or the omakase: chef’s choice of all nigiri, rolls, etc., which can also be expertly paired with an assortment of wines, sakes and champagnes for an upcharge. — CARRIE SCOZZARO

Oishii, 209 North First Ave., Sandpoint, Idaho, is open Sun-Thu 11:30 am–11 pm, Fri-Sat 11:30 am-2 am. Call (208) 263-1406. Reservations recommended.

FLEUR DE SEL
Envision a typical European meal of soup, salad, a shared plate with some kind of meat perhaps, and a bottle of wine. A bite of this and that, food meant to be savored with loved ones. This is Fleur de Sel.

Although named for a rare French sea salt, Fleur de Sel is not exactly a French restaurant. While half the menu features wine, beer and apertifs (not including cocktails), the other covers a range of shared plates, soups and salads reflecting owners Patricia and Laurent Zirotti’s French, Northern Italian and other experiences. Even the entrées at Fleur de Sel embody a more European approach to dining, with reasonably portioned dishes like the penne rustica ($10) or gnocchi with pan-seared duck sausage and foie gras.

Fleur de Sel caters to the adventurous and discerning diner who appreciates service that is unobtrusive yet professional, a casually elegant environment and food that is distinct, impeccably prepared and yet hearty. Do not expect anything fussy or nouvelle here. Thus you might start your meal with fried calamari, bistro fries or venture the French rillette pate ($6).

Winter weather will bring more soups and stews, says Patricia Zirotti, such as the boeuf bourguignon made famous by the recent movie Julie & Julia. They may even add escargot!

Dessert is ideal for sharing too, including the Colonel with Absolut Citron Vodka ($7) or the chocolate cake with gelato, Chantilly cream and a shot glass of jalapeño coulis to be drizzled over the sweet treats ($7).

If it sounds ritzy, it’s not. Prices for small plates range from $4 to $8, with most entrées well under $20. (CS)

Fleur de Sel, 4365 Inverness Dr., Post Falls, Idaho, is open Tue-Sat, 5-9 pm. Reservations recommended. Call (208) 777-7600.

315 MARTINIS AND TAPAS
So many restaurants claim to serve tapas, yet so few were designed specifically for a style of eating that embraces sharing.

“I have been wanting to do a martini bar for several years,” explains Kris McIlvenna, who along with husband Bob, runs Coeur d’Alene’s Greenbriar Inn bed-and-breakfast. “Initially I thought the food would just complement the martini bar, so I thought the small-plate idea would work well with that.”

She adds: “My husband Bob and I have eaten out for years, just ordering appetizers and creating a meal between us.”

In June 2008, they launched 315 Martinis and Tapas in the Greenbriar location, building on more than 20 years’ local catering experience. In addition to entrées like halibut in picatta sauce, the menu features appetizers and tapas, a few soups and salads, and numerous desserts.

Several appetizers tip their caps to Spanish culture, from which tapas originated, such as spiced almonds and marinated olives in rosemary, garlic and olive oil ($4). Other dishes incorporate broader European influences, such as red wine-soaked pears with fruit and Gorgonzola cheese.

Under the tapas menu umbrella are a dozen or more seasonal small plates ($6-$12), ranging from Tuscan clams to beef satay to a Portobello mushroom stuffed with spinach and goat cheese.

The tapas tradition originally involved little nibbles served to bar patrons, thus 315 has made sure to stock a variety of wines and beers, specializing in martinis like the Wildbeary (made with huckleberry products they sell on-site). The 315 regularly runs menu and drink specials for small groups and couples, hosts cooking classes and brings in live music. For those who like to plan ahead, you can book a room upstairs or inquire about having 315 cater your next event, big or small. (CS)

315 Martinis and Tapas, 315 E. Wallace Ave., Coeur d’Alene, is open Tue-Fri, 3:15 pm-close (usually 11 pm). Visit greenbriarcatering.com or call (208) 667-9660.