Three Women and a Breakfast Diner

DOLLY'S • 1825 N. Washington • 326-0386
Breakfast freaks freaked. Dolly’s — the famous Pepto-Bismol-colored bacon-and-eggs joint in the backyard of North Central High School — shuttered its windows last fall, and no one quite knew what was happening to their favorite breakfast stop. After more than six months of ripping out old wiring and faulty furnaces, owner Desiree Olsness re-opened a newer, prettier Dolly’s, one full of cushy booths, Pottery Barn-esque décor and even better versions of Dolly’s longtime standards. (LS)

Buckwheat Cakes ($4.29, added blueberries for $1.00)
I opted for the buckwheat cakes not because I’m a big buckwheat fan (I’m not even totally sure what buckwheat is) but because it sounded healthier than the rest of the menu. My three basketball-sized cakes had blueberries cooked into the batter and a big flop of butter melting on top. They were sweet and savory all at once, and I added a little syrup for more sweetness. I am a happy, full, converted fan of buckwheat. And Dolly’s.  (LS)

Chicken Fried Steak & Eggs ($11.49)
Oh Lordy, that cut of cube steak takes up half the plate and almost a fourth of the table. It’s perched next to two perfectly over-easy eggs — looking at me as if to say, “There’s no way you’ll even come close to finishing that giant fried piece of meat.” I jump in, my tastebuds swimming in the sea of sausage gravy. Bit by bit I’m chipping away at the deliciously crispy beef chunk. But halfway through, my fork’s tired, my stomach’s full, and I can’t eat anymore. (TLM)

Country Benedict ($7.49)
For once, substituting vegetarian-friendly ingredients for meat products worked out. The monster cornmeal biscuit came topped with spinach and melted cheese instead of a sausage patty and gravy. The biscuit was surprising (I expected a buttermilk biscuit), but perfect for giving some texture to what could have been a mushy affair. The side of hash browns dipped in hollandaise sauce became my new favorite food pairing. And probably was the cause of the tummy ache I suffered later. (EP)

TOP NOTCH CAFE • 825 N. Monroe St. • 315-5567
The pint-sized, warm and cozy Spokane breakfast joint recently reopened — freshened up, a new owner at the helm. It’s one of those places where they’ll hunt behind the counter for an extra cup of tartar or cinnamon-bun frosting — apologizing profusely if they can’t find any. It’s great for people-watching, too. On our visit, we watched a guy slick his hair back using the reflection of the Top Notch’s windows and sat next to a belching, smack-talking teenage girl. Awesome. (LS)

Belgian Waffle ($5, added strawberries and whipped cream for $2.00)
My distaste for eggs got in my way again on the Top Notch menu, but I happily settled for their Belgian waffle. I watched in the back as the cook poured and carefully tended to my waffle. I’m an Eggo fan, so I don’t need much from my waffles. But Top Notch’s was a treat: thick, bready, buttery — more savory than sweet. The berries and whipped cream added a perfect amount of sweetness to the waffle. (LS)

The Costanza ($8)
I love the way horseradish manages to burn, tickle and satisfy your tongue in one bite. I ordered this phenomenal sandwich specifically for the sour cream and horseradish mixture that coated the inside. The roast beef wasn’t as lean as I normally like it, but the cucumbers added a nice, light flavor. The sourdough bread wasn’t overwhelmingly sour, making the sandwich taste fresh and summery despite the heavy beef. Fresh-made with just a dash of mayonnaise, the colesaw was the highlight of the meal. (TLM)

Lil’s Cinnamon Roll ($4)
How could I possibly order anything else when “cinnamon roll” was on the menu? It was listed as a side. But love works in mysterious ways — it caught my eye just as I opened my mouth to order something else. From the Alpine Bakery on Monroe, this cinnamon roll presented a common problem: I had to eat a lot of lightly glazed, but otherwise dry, outer dough before reaching the gooey sweetness so dear to my heart. (EP)