Inlander

After 61 years, it's the end of an era for downtown Spokane staple Domini Sandwiches

Dora Scott Nov 28, 2024 1:30 AM
Erick Doxey photo
Tom Domini is retiring and selling his downtown sandwich shop to a longtime employee.

For generations of Spokanites, Domini Sandwiches has been much more than a place to grab a bite. With its signature '70s decor and shelves lined with all sorts of trinkets and memorabilia, the sandwich shop represents a time capsule of Spokane, curated throughout its 61 years of serving up hearty, simple sandwiches and complimentary popcorn.

On Thursday, Dec. 5, Domini Sandwiches will serve its final sandwich under Tom Domini's ownership at its downtown location on West Sprague Avenue before passing the torch to a longtime employee, Nakia Tilton, and her husband, Zach.

The popular business wasn't always a sandwich shop. Tom Domini's father, Al, and uncle, Fred, originally opened a tavern called Stockholm Bar on Howard Street in 1947. A business neighboring their tavern burned down in 1962, which prompted the brothers to close, rebrand and open Domini Sandwiches in 1963 at 703 W. Sprague Ave.

The transition from tavern to sandwich shop was driven by a desire for simplicity and speed — the OG fast food, but actually fresh (nothing frozen) and high-quality.

"My dad didn't want nothing sophisticated, just something put out fast and then people can watch him make it," Domini says.

That commitment to quality and efficiency became the foundation of the restaurant's success, earning it 30 consecutive wins for Best Sandwiches in the Inlander's Best Of Reader's Poll.

"The bread is the key ingredient," Domini says, adding they get fresh sandwich bread daily from the local Alpine Bakery Co. Though the bakery has changed ownership throughout the years, the recipe for its soft loaves remains the same.

Paired simply with a choice of meat, cheese and basic condiment, Domini's sandwiches ($9.75-$16.25) have become a Spokane staple, feeding hundreds of hungry customers daily.

"These last few months, over 300 sandwiches a day. And only two of us making sandwiches," Domini says.

No visit to Domini Sandwiches is complete without a bowl of their famous popcorn.

"The popcorn goes back to my grandfather," Domini says. "You could sell more beer if you had salty popcorn."

Erick Doxey photo
Instead of chips, Domini Sandwiches offers popcorn.

Domini started working for his father's business in the summer of 1974, just before his senior year of high school and during Expo '74.

"That's when the license changed so minors could come in and eat, so that changed the whole dynamics of our place. Before that, it was a tavern only — you had to be 21 — so that made our business a lot better," says Domini.

For the period overlapping with Expo '74, Domini Sandwiches temporarily relocated to the Davenport Hotel while the Washington Trust Bank building was erected, which required the demolition of several buildings to make space for the 15-floor tower there today.

The shop moved back into its West Sprague location in 1976, where they've remained since, with minor changes along the way.

Back when smoking was the norm in the '70s, and before part of the interior left side wall was taken down to open up the restaurant space, Domini Sandwiches had designated smoking and nonsmoking sections. And while it's more recently been a popular lunch spot, it used to be open much later.

"Back in the '70s, '80s, we used to stay open until 7:30 at night, so we had all the bank people and attorneys come down and drink beer and wine," Domini says.

With new businesses opening and bringing more evening happy hour competition, the shop gradually adjusted their hours.

"We ended up closing at 6, then 5:30, then 5, then 4. Now after COVID, our stated hours were 10 to 2:30, but the bread gets here early so I can make them earlier for people that want to come by earlier," Domini says.

Working at the shop since he was a teenager, Domini became an integral part of its operations. His dad handed him and his brother, Joe, the reins in 1990. The brothers worked together for over 20 years before Joe retired 12 years ago.

The most rewarding part of running the family business has been seeing the different people and generations come through their doors, according to Domini.

"I know their sandwich when they walk in. I probably know 400 different sandwiches that people have that I make right when I hear them walk through the door," he says of his regulars.

When he's not handling the responsibilities that come with ownership, Domini is right in the thick of the lunch rush slinging sandwiches alongside his small but dedicated staff, many who've worked at the restaurant for over a decade.

Since announcing Domini's retirement in September, staff can't turn tables over fast enough to accommodate all the customers flooding in to say their goodbyes and buy their last sandwich.

"They know how hard we work," Domini says. "You know, people appreciate that. It's not an easy job, staying on your feet 10 hours a day."

Erick Doxey photo
Shelves in the restaurant are lined with mementos of the Domini family legacy.

After decades in business, the restaurant interior almost feels like a living room or micromuseum of Domini's life and the family's history.

Surveying the walls, Domini identifies different mementos resting on shelves: photos of his dad, him and his brother winning the Inlander's Best Of, signed basketballs, a 100-plus-year-old liquor jug from Durkin's bar, and doll versions of him and Joe (bushy mustaches and all).

For Domini, 67, the decision to retire was not an easy one to make.

"Oh, it's sad. I mean, I've had a lot of tearful moments; very emotional moments," he says. "I know a lot of people over the years. I've had people drive up from Sacramento to get their last sandwich. I've had people from Tri Cities, Moses Lake, Seattle. I have a huge following."

He is, however, looking forward to spending more time with family, celebrating his kids' marriages, and traveling to Memphis, Nashville, Boston, and the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland.

"I'm a big music guy. I go to a lot of concerts; that's my hobby," he says.

While an end to the Domini legacy, Domini Sandwiches is being left in the capable hands of Tilton, who's been making sandwiches alongside him for over a decade.

"You have to have somebody that knows the business and has been around, and knows what it's like to do what it takes every day," Domini says.

Since their lease was not renewed, the shop will be moving to a new, still unnamed location in the new year. "It will be a totally different feel," he adds.

Though Dec. 5 will be the last day to buy food at the historic location, on Dec. 6, family, friends and regulars can gather to say their final farewells to the space and business that's carried such a long family legacy. Domini's grandfather moved from Italy to Spokane in 1908, setting the precedent for a family of entrepreneurs.

"Over 100 years we've always had a business downtown, so this will be the last of it," he says. "I've loved every minute of it. I loved every customer. Felt like part of our family, you know? It's been a really great ride."

Domini Sandwiches • 703 W. Sprague Ave. • Open Mon-Fri 10 am-2:30 pm through Dec. 5 • dominispokane.com • 509-747-2324