"Sometimes when you limit options, you get more creative," restaurateur Philip Stanton says, sitting across a table wearing Adidas streetwear, his curly hair peeking out from under a Seattle Mariners cap.
"Instead of having everything to work with and being overwhelmed by all the possibilities, you just have a single thing that you have to do."
He's talking about why he transformed his experimental fine-dining restaurant into a neighborhood burger joint.
Previously the chef-owner of Park Lodge Restaurant, Stanton opened BRGR House in the same Kendall Yards' location, sandwiched between Hello Sugar donut shop and the Centennial Trail. The new, more approachable eatery offers only burgers and fries, plus the obligatory beer and cocktails. Far from limiting, Stanton sees this as the perfect fit for his team's passion for creativity and excellence, plus the neighborhood's love for quality and sustainability.
At BRGR House, the clean, modern interior of a high-end restaurant remains. A polished wooden trellis frames a classy, well-stocked bar. Floor-to-ceiling, south-facing windows showcase a fire-lit patio overlooking the river. Original contemporary art adds abstract pops of color. A striped Maori mask, surely 4 or 5 feet tall, hangs from the ceiling. (Stanton says it was a gift from Greenstone developer Jim Frank, who likes spending time in New Zealand and gifts an art piece to every new restaurant in Kendall Yards.)
What greets guests as they enter isn't a hostess stand anymore, but an order counter and a casual walk-up system that lets you choose your burger right away, pick up a number and find your own table. Self-service counters with water, silverware and napkins let you take care of yourself. Open a tab at the bar if you like. An open-concept kitchen lets you see into the back of the house to watch culinary artists at work. Enjoy your meal uninterrupted by stuffy black-tie wait staff. Stanton himself might be the one busing your table.
Stanton, a Spokane native, has spent most of his life in restaurants. He started as a dishwasher at Denny's in Pullman, then moved through the fine-dining scenes in Los Angeles, San Francisco and Portland. He's an artist, inspired by fresh, local ingredients and obsessed with new creations. Nothing about that has changed, even at a joint that only serves beef.
BRGR House's chefs use an open-flame Argentinian grill, fueled by apple and cherry wood. The menu design still relies on boxes of seasonal produce and minimally processed meats. Stanton grows his own herbs in a garden right off the patio, including a pineapple sage plant over 5 years old. (Stanton laments losing his French tarragon, especially because he says it's a plant he can't buy seeds for anymore.) He even dreams (even if it could never logistically happen) of raising a few of his own cattle next to the restaurant, ever committed to fresh, high quality, farm-to-table eats. To him, it's not a philosophy reserved for exclusive dining.
"We're taking that and using a concept that provides food that's familiar to everyone," Stanton says.
Some things on the menu are definitely familiar. The Classic BRGR ($16) is a thick, 6-ounce patty topped with lettuce, onion, pickle, white cheddar and the house's secret BRGR sauce. (You might expect tomatoes, but Stanton refuses to serve fresh tomatoes that aren't locally grown, and a nearby tomato won't be ripe until mid- to late summer.) Tiny smashburgers ($4) are one of Stanton's favorites. Stack two smash burgers with pickles and sauce to make one Mighty BRGR ($10), or go ahead and order a whole bag to take home ($35).
Stanton offers other creations for the more curious eater, like a Grilled Meatloaf BRGR ($25), which wraps meatloaf in bacon and tucks it between buns with baby spinach and fried onions. The Almost BRGR ($10), a black bean sloppy Joe, gives a meat-free option to the less carnivorous. Salads ($9-$18) are available — Cobb, Caesar, Mediterranean and wedge all make an appearance — but everyone knows we want the fries ($4 small; $7 large) which also come with the house's special sauce.
Much like his new restaurant, Stanton himself seems to inhabit two worlds.
"My mom was a college professor," Stanton says. "Most of my family's all been... well, that's the route they've done with their lives."
Stanton is demure about the fact that his father, Peter Stanton, is the CEO of Washington Trust Bank. During college, the chef toyed with a different career route.
"But I just ended up back in kitchens," Stanton says. "I started to take it more seriously as a potential career for me, and [now] I don't need anything else."
Stanton may have found the way to combine his passion and creativity with a relaxed, low-barrier experience.
"Spokane's got a great market for people wanting more out of their food," he says. "What a burger is always meant to be is an easily accessible piece of food. It's just something that everyone can enjoy. I think we've made a nice space that is welcoming to everyone." ♦
BRGR House • 411 N. Nettleton St. • Open Tue-Sat noon-8 pm • brgr.house • 509-340-9347
