In deep sepia paint on a white wall, a woman in a flapper gown ignores the gaze of an enamored admirer. She tilts her chin down, in profile to the mural's viewer, revealing a flower tucked into the side of her crimped hair.
The mural's painter, well-known Spokane artist Daniel Lopez, named the woman Magnolia.
She's a patron saint of sorts. She graces the wall of the restaurant underneath Hotel Indigo on the west end of downtown Spokane. That restaurant used to be Magnolia American Brasserie. But now it has a new owner, new chef and new, simpler name — Doña-Magnolia, or "Lady" Magnolia.
Doña-Magnolia opened in March and is Spokane's newest fine dining spot, helmed by chef Manuel Montijo, Jr., who's also new in town. Montijo, who trained at the now-closed Oregon Culinary Institute, spent years in fine dining in Portland and is excited to open his first restaurant in Spokane.
Montijo was handpicked by co-owner Fredy Martinez, who also owns Molé Restaurant in Kendall Yards, to curate an experience inspired by international flavors and modern flair.
"We wanted to make it a little bit different, as opposed to just being French," Montijo says. "I always find that [when] you have no restrictions to guide your menu, you can play around and do a little bit of everything."
Montijo isn't exaggerating. For appetizers at Doña-Magnolia, you can try deep-fried risotto balls called arancini ($11), a plate of tuna and salmon ceviche ($22), or spicy Szechuan dumplings ($12). For dinner, try rosé pasta ($24), a New York steak ($40), sausage fried rice ($18), green coconut curry ($24) or grilled salmon tacos ($20).
Montijo aims to rotate the menu every three months or so, and is already planning a menu flip soon that will include a new pork belly dish.
"I want it to be something where you can get transported by eating certain foods," Montijo says. "For example, you're eating ceviche — that's Central or South American, coastal. But then, you can transport yourself by eating a curry dish and go to an Asian country. Then you can go to Italy and get pasta, and then from there, jump over to America and get something different."
Travel is inherent not only to the menu, but the entire building's history. About a hundred years ago, with a good location near the train line and savvy, discreet owners, the building is rumored to have been host to plenty of travelers looking for illegal gambling and drinking during the 1920s Prohibition era — depicted in other murals inside.
Nowadays, for anyone looking for a perfectly legal but particularly swanky birthday party or business meeting, there's a rentable private room just off the main dining room suitable for buffets or presentations.
Doña-Magnolia just opened in March, but is already proving to be a popular pre-show dinner spot before concerts at the Fox Theater, which is just across the street. The restaurant can comfortably seat about 100 people, but it's best to make a reservation beforehand to make sure you can get to the show on time.
For those with a little more chill time on their hands, Doña-Magnolia's happy hour is every day from 4-6 pm and offers 10% off the entire menu, including drinks.
Montijo grew up in the Tri-Cities, taking cooking classes in high school and knowing he wanted to be a chef by the time he graduated. He went to Oregon Culinary Institute (which closed in 2020) and fell in love with fine dining.
"Being in the culinary scene in Portland — everyone over there in that community breathes, talks, lives that to the fullest," Montijo says. "You come across good, good talent out there. The passion is there, you know, so it's hard not to have that rub off on you."
After years in Portland, Montijo went back home to the Tri-Cities and spent a few months as the head chef at Fredy's Bar & Grill in Kennewick. Yes, that Fredy's — as in Martinez, an experienced restaurateur who also helped open places like Umi Kitchen and Sushi Bar in Kendall Yards and Nudo Ramen downtown Spokane.
Though Montijo's stint at Fredy's was short and the steakhouse has since closed, his talent and attention to detail made a significant impression on Martinez. When Martinez took over Magnolia American Brasserie after it closed in 2023, he knew exactly who he wanted to own and operate it with.
More than just food, Montijo is dedicated to an entire dining experience.
"From the time you get greeted by the host to the time you get to your table and time you get your water or beverages — it's basically a whole team effort," Montijo says. "It's like an orchestra."
Montijo is usually in the kitchen, where he feels the most at home. But every once in a while, he'll sneak into the dining room to secretly check on his guests.
"I like people's facial expressions when they're eating," he says. "You'll see them nodding that nod of approval. Anyone that comes in and takes time out of their day to come and eat here — I want them to be able to remember the dining experience."
While some restaurants have shied away from downtown locations, Montijo isn't phased by the "different walks of life" that pass by the tall glass windows of Doña-Magnolia.
At night, the contrast of bright interior lights shining onto the dark street are reminiscent of the diners looking out on the sidewalk in Edward Hopper's famous painting "Nighthawks." A mural next to the restaurant's delivery entrance riffs on that very painting, romanticizing the corner restaurant even more.
Spokane's dining scene is different from Portland's in many ways. It's smaller, Montijo says, and more tight-knit.
"Everyone kind of knows each other," he says. "I feel like a lot of the good restaurants have that background established already, where the chefs know each other or have worked with each other at one point or another."
Montijo is working 13 to 14 hours a day to make his restaurant dreams come true. He's hoping his passion, and the support he gets from his wife and two children, will eventually pay off.
"My commitment, my passion is definitely there, and the hunger to see the restaurant succeed and make something of a name for myself," Montijo says.
Time will tell how many admirers will flock to the muse that is Doña-Magnolia. ♦
Doña-Magnolia • 110 S. Madison St. • Open Mon-Thu 7 am-10 am and 3-8 pm; Fri-Sat 7 am-9:30 pm; Sun 7 am-8 pm • 509-862-6410 • donamagnolia.com
