I joined the Inlander team this May and have felt behind the eight ball ever since. Not only is the area's food scene a tight-knit community, but it changes fast. From what I can gather, it's changing faster and faster each year. Two of my first stories covered openings of restaurants that are now closed. But the Inland Northwest had more openings than closings this year, and though we lost some beloved establishments, some new long-term favorites may have been born.
This year, Spokane also saw the openings of three new Middle Eastern grocery stores, reflecting the city's growing diversity and culinary potential, both for dining out and at home.
Two popular food trucks, one Armenian and one Pacific Island and Asian fusion, found permanent homes in brick-and-mortar locations. Old and new fans alike are excited to feed their cravings all year long.
But if there's one thing I'm taking away from covering food in the region this year, it's how supportive food community members are to one another. New collaborations created unique experiences — modern food courts, a nonprofit community creamery, a one-stop-shop for cocktails and houseplants — that were win-wins for partners and foodies alike. In an industry as cutthroat and volatile as the restaurant business, it's unique to see so many locals help one another through seemingly constant change.
CLOSINGS
First, we say goodbye. This summer, downtown Spokane lost LeftBank Wine Bar, plus Brooklyn Deli, Scratch Restaurant and Rain Lounge, which were all on the same block. As the late-year cold weather rolled in, more downtown spots closed their doors, including Crave bar and Red Lion Pub. Also shuttered downtown was Adam Hegsted's De España and Gander & Ryegrass's teeny tiny cocktail joint, June & Co. Just eight months in, the new indoor food court Off The Wall closed for good. Worker-owned and socially conscious Golden Handle Brewing Co. is closing its doors by the end of the year.
BRGR House and 3 Ninjas Curbside & Catering (which continues to operate in Liberty Lake) ceased operations in Kendall Yards. The Northside bid adieu to the last Skippers Restaurant in the city, along with Mossuto's Italian, Dos Gordos and Lost Boys Garage. Uno Mas Taco Shop closed its Spokane Valley location (the Wonder Building counter is still open) and Hierophant Meadery shuttered its tasting room in Green Bluff.
In a competitive industry with razor-thin margins and rising labor costs, it's expected that not everyone makes it. But not all closings were due solely to financial difficulties. Suki Yaki Inn, Spokane's oldest Japanese restaurant, closed when its owner finally decided to retire.
Established in 1945, Suki Yaki was located where Spokane's "Trent Alley" used to be, a name for an area between Spokane Falls Boulevard and Main Avenue that housed many of the city's Chinese and Japanese immigrants at the turn of the previous century. The area was mostly torn down in anticipation of Expo' 74. With a sushi bar and tatami rooms, Suki Yaki Inn considered itself the last authentic Japanese restaurant in Spokane.
OPENINGS
Now to the fun part! There were plenty of newcomers to the food scene this year: Vantage Point Brewing and Inland Kava Bar opened exciting new drink spots in Coeur d'Alene. And don't sleep on the Athenaeum, a swanky new wine and beer drinkery in Medical Lake. Post Falls saw its first super-healthy drive-thru, Konala, which is already planning to franchise into more cities in Northern Idaho and Eastern Washington.
Spokane welcomed plenty of new chefs and concepts. Downtown got everything from Bowery, a classy yet casual French bistro, to the Bagel Authority, a shop that is adamant you should steam your bagels instead of toasting them. Diners rushed to try Sorella, a glamorous, gilded Italian eatery in Kendall Yards.
A bit farther north, Zozo's Sandwich House opened as an East Coast deli-style lunch spot. Cantarito brought Mexican, Peruvian and Panamanian cuisine to the Indian Trail neighborhood. Cafe Boku Coffee & Crepes started offering French and Asian fusion drinks and pastries near the Newport Highway.
In the University District, an entrepreneur and rising senior at Gonzaga opened Uoni Tea, and a former Brooklyn Deli employee opened Paper St. Coffee Co. Authentic Mexican food at Patrón is now available on the South Hill. The Valley got a new mom-and-pop sandwich shop, Hungree Bee Sandwiches, featuring Boar's Head meats and plenty of fresh veggies.
And those are just the new folks. Plenty of established brands, chefs and brewers launched new projects this year. De Leon's Tex Mex Grill opened in Coeur d'Alene, the newest in the local family chain of Mexican restaurants and grocers. TT's Brewery & Barbecue opened a second location in Liberty Lake and Umi Sushi opened a second location on north Division Street near the Y. Browne Family Vineyards expanded into Browne Family Spirits distillery in East Central. Revival Tea Co. expanded its downtown storefront with a new craft boba bar.
Celeste Shaw-Coulston, owner of Chaps and Lucky Vintage, opened Dear Coco, a cozy cafe on Main Avenue dedicated to her granddaughter. Gander & Ryegrass launched Saltbox Sandwich Co., a gourmet sandwich menu available for delivery, and let's not forget that Ruins brought back its lunch menu, too.
Juli Norris opened Lorèn in the same building as her Kasa Restaurant and Taphouse on the north side of Riverfront Park. Sharee Moss opened her third location of Birdie's Pie Shop on North Monroe, and not too far from there Isaac Houger of Peace Pie opened Sandos, a drive-thru for breakfast and lunch sandwiches on Ash Street. Island Style Food found a permanent home on Division Street. A trio of brewers from River City Brewing opened Hat Trick Brewing in their West Central neighborhood. In the Eagle Ridge area, Susan Shelby of Latah Bistro opened Shelby's, a retro smashburger joint next to her fine dining establishment.
But in my mind, 2023 was the year of epic collabs. After years of experience together at the exclusive Gozzer Ranch on Lake Coeur d'Alene, three chefs opened House of Brunch in downtown Spokane. Kadra Evans of Little Noodle teamed up with her best friend Kelly Kramer to open Garden Party, a downtown cocktail bar happily overrun by houseplants and herbs. Longtime chef Michael Wiley teamed up with first-time food trucker Mirak Kazanjian to open Skewers on First Avenue, an authentic Armenian diner where Scratch Restaurant and Rain Lounge used to be.
Folks from Bellwether Brewing, Derailer Coffee and the Grain Shed teamed up to open The United, a modern food court in an antique bank building in Hillyard. Three longtime friends and chefs opened Thunder Pie Pizza, one of the bro-iest places for pizza and beer downtown. A delicious partnership between New Love Coffee and Bean & Pie hit the spot in Kendall Yards with both espresso and sweet or savory hand pies. And up in Chewelah, small dairy farmers came together to start Columbia Community Creamery, a nonprofit local dairy with the first fresh milk dispenser in the nation.
From what I can tell, food is a huge part of the Inland Northwest. It's an honor to get to write about it. Here's to a new year of creativity, innovation, collaboration and sharing. Change can be scary, but turns out it can be a good thing sometimes, too. Cheers! ♦
