I expertly timed my five 5:45 pm reservation for the gorgeous sunset overlooking the majestic — OK, more like the "technically municipal" — city of Post Falls. But the question wasn't whether any of the dishes would be good — they all were — it's which ones were the best.
I sampled from two of the three options in all three courses and then pitted them against each other, because we in the media demand conflict.
APPETIZER
Steak Tartare
Steak tartare, in its very raw nature, can be a bit of a risk, and I was a bit unsure about the flavor. But the secret, here, is to combine the pomme gaufrette — or waffle fries, as we uncivilized Americans call them — the glaze decorating the bottom of the plate, into one glorious bite. That's the way it should be eaten, the crunch and salt of the chip, the zing of the sauce and the raw subtleties of the beef all merging into one symphony.
VS
Figs and Blue Cheese Flatbread
Daniel Walters photo
Armenian flatbread spread with fig jam, Brush Creek blue cheese from Deary, Idaho, and candied walnuts.
WINNER: Steak tartare. The figs and flatbread tastes like damn fine quality pizza. But it's easy to get some pretty decent pizza anywhere. If you really want to feel fancy, go with the raw steak.
ENTREE
Daniel Walters photo
"House cured and smoked Canadian king salmon served over a caramelized sauerkraut, creamy risotto and a sauce au poivre."
The smoked salmon positively melts in your mouth. It's fantastic. But, surprisingly, the best part of the dish is what lies beneath: The caramelized sauerkraut. It offers a textural counterpoint to the smooth risotto that's subtle enough not to be obtrusive, but interesting enough to give the risotto complexity.
VS
Chicken Truffles
Daniel Walters photo
"Grilled natural airline chicken breast served over ravioli filled with a mushroom duxelle in an Italian summer truffles cream sauce"
WINNER: This one's close. But we've got to award it to the truffle chicken. The sauce practically swaddles you in a blanket by a roaring fire.
But you also shouldn't forget the third option on the menu, the pork cheeks à la bourguignonne. That particular dish is accompanied by glazed Brussels sprouts, which taste like miraculous little vegetable candy pouches. They're one of the best renditions of a vegetable you'll find on any many in the Inland Northwest.
DESSERT
Daniel Walters photo
"Lavender-scented cheesecake with a gingersnap crust and topped with Fleur de Sel spices rhubarb compote."
Consider me a Restaurant Week dessert course skeptic. Most restaurant's dessert courses are too sweet, too rich, or can't compete with a simple scoop of Chunky Monkey. But if you must do dessert, go with cheesecake, rhubarb and the gingerbread crust. The gingerbread, fruit and cheesecake all balance each other in a delightful trinity.
VS
Sorbet and Cookies
Daniel Walters photo
"Housemade lemon sorbet served with a couple of coconut Parisian macarons filled with pineapple curd"
Not to be confused with the French president, the coconut macarons had made for a perfect little cookie sandwich, with the coconuts nicely bookending the pineapple curd.
WINNER: The cheesecake. Always bet on cheesecake.
SHOCKING OVERALL WINNER: SOUP OF THE DAY The best thing I had, however, was not even on Fleur De Sel's Restaurant Week menu. It was the big cup of soup that you could order for the crazy-reasonable price of $4. A fine-fine pureed butternut squash with roast jalapeno, this just may be the best soup I've ever taken. You spend maybe 10 seconds savoring the taste of the squash and then boom, in comes the baritone heat of the roasted jalapeno to leave you with a lingering finish. Get the soup, people.
