Head to the recently reopened Steam Plant Restaurant and Pub inside its historic, once-industrial building in the heart of downtown, and you may feel time hasn't skipped a beat.
Though the restaurant shut down at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 and remained on an extended hiatus until late last fall, an opportunity for change presented itself.
Formerly owned by Avista Corps, the Steam Plant venue, with its iconic twin stacks lending a uniqueness to the Spokane skyline, last year sold to local real estate developer Jerry Dicker. Owner of numerous other downtown properties, including the historic Bing Crosby Theater, Dicker brought the Steam Plant's recently refurbished (as of 2018, after a $4 million renovation of the entire facility) restaurant back online in November 2021.
With an opening menu crafted by chef Tyler Shales, whose résumé includes the venerable but long-gone Sante, Steam Plant's new menu includes house-made pasta dishes ($18-$24) and traditional entrees (grilled ribeye steak, seasonal fish and roasted chicken; $24-$38), plus handhelds ($12-$15), salads ($10), pizza ($15-$16) and more.
While Shales' time at Steam Plant was short — he recently left for other opportunities, passing his executive chef duties on to Teresa Lefebvre — general manager Jeff Cooney expects the menu to continue featuring many of his introductions. One of those is handmade pasta, which has quickly become a customer favorite. Lefebvre comes to Steam Plant by way of Northern Quest Resort & Casino, where she was executive sous chef for its restaurant portfolio.
Cooney, meanwhile, was general manager of the restaurant when Avista owned it, and was asked by Dicker to stay on through the transition.
"I've been in the restaurant industry my entire life, and Teresa is a fantastic chef," Cooney says. "I am very excited to work with her."
While not much had to be changed in the restaurant since it was modernized four years ago, Dicker made some minor upgrades to improve the service flow and guests' experience.
For the menu, Cooney says Dicker wants to ensure as much as possible is prepared fresh. Hence the made-in-house pasta, plus the dough for its wood-fired pizza, and even ice cream for dessert.
Another change at the Steam Plant, both on the operational and menu side, is a new partnership with Grain Shed Brewing, which is utilizing an attached brewery space formerly home to Steam Plant Brewery. Accordingly, the partnership means several of the restaurant's tap handles are reserved for Grain Shed's beers made with regionally sourced ingredients.
Cooney says the restaurant is currently open for dinner only. Happy hour, meanwhile, offered daily both early (4 to 6 pm) and late (9 pm to midnight), has been a hit with the downtown crowd. On special for happy hour, craft cocktails are $11, with a house wine list and well cocktails for $5. All beer is $5-$6, and a selection of shareable food items range from $7-$13. ♦
Steam Plant Restaurant & Brew Pub • 159 S. Lincoln St. • Open Tue-Sat 4-9 pm • steamplantspokane.com/dining • 509-777-3900