Inlander

We sent five writers to explore the coffee shop trend of super-sweet drinks and candy-crusted caffeine — they and their insulin-levels survived to tell the tale

Inlander Staff Jun 8, 2023 1:30 AM
Young Kwak photo
Taste the sugar-filled rainbow with these sweet, fruity, summery drinks at Pavilion Coffee.

In 1925, Rinaldo and Ezilda Torre immigrated from Lucca, Italy, to the North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco. Tucked somewhere in their belongings were five handwritten recipes for flavored syrups: anisette, grenadine, lemon, orgeat and tamarindo.

The couple pitched their homemade concoctions to local grocers by serving them with sparkling water and ice, nicknaming them "Italian sodas." Eventually, they founded Torani, which still produces the red-and-blue labeled bottles that bedeck bars and coffee shops across the country.

In the decades since, the humble, sometimes bitter "Italian" soda has been transformed by an onslaught of add-ins: first cream, then whipped cream, then Red Bull energy drinks.

Today, many coffee shop's Instagram feeds feature a rainbow of neon, coffee-free drinks. Some actually glow in the dark, and others are topped with sprinkles, cookies, cotton candy or Sour Patch Kids. Torani syrups are still in the mix, while shots of Red Bull or Lotus add caffeine (as if the sugar rush wouldn't be enough).

This week, several Inlander reporters disregarded our insulin levels (and better judgment?) to taste some of the most glitzy, glammy, do-it-for-the-Gram concoctions. Are these treats for the eyes worth the impending sugar crash?

— ELIZA BILLINGHAM

PAVILION COFFEE

9921 E. Trent Ave., Spokane Valley; @pavilion_coffee

What we got: Hawaiian Punch Polar Blast, $6.50 (16 oz.)

Disclaimer: I take my espresso black, with some hot water if I feel like splurging. I am not the target audience for a tropical, whimsical — dare I say — exciting drink. This is probably more geared towards coffee-shy teenagers or savvy adults who've been around the block. I didn't know that Hawaiian Punch even comes in blue.

The Hawaiian Punch Polar Blast is one of Pavilion's specialty Lotus drinks, though I have trouble believing there's anything plant-based in it. It tastes like a slush-ified blue raspberry Jolly Rancher. In its defense, blue raspberry was the coveted flavor when my third-grade teacher handed out hard candy to anyone who aced their multiplication tables. My first sip brought back that A+ rush.

The bright colors and sweet baristas were a welcome relief from a long stretch of asphalt shimmered with heat waves. By the third sip, I was riding an electric blue ripcurl of food dye and dopamine. I couldn't tell if the pink whip tasted any different than regular whipped cream, but please blame my unrefined palate on the impending sugar coma. I even forgot to ask for the blue raspberry drizzle, which looks like a Smurf-colored Magic Shell. But that amount of fun would have certainly pushed me over the edge. I'll leave Trent Avenue to the true sweet tooth who's a better match for this island Willy Wonka. (ELIZA BILLINGHAM)

MUDSLINGERS OF SPOKANE

24 N. Freya St; Instagram: @spokanemudslingers

What we got: Passionfruit guava and blackberry huckleberry Red Bull Italian soda in a split cup with glitter; $8.25

Let it be known that I am a coffee lover through and through. I would even go as far as labeling myself a quasi-coffee snob. So, when I pull up to my drive-thru coffee stand of choice, I usually bypass the outrageously-colored energy drinks and Italian sodas and head straight for a sweet and creamy coffee-based drink to get my caffeine fix. But hey, don't knock it till you try it, right?

Mudslingers of Spokane has a huge menu featuring a wide array of specialty drinks. There are brightly-colored fruit smoothies, blended frappes, edible glitter add-ins, and the thing that I was after: split cups. It's exactly what you're imagining, a cup split into two. The only caveat is that you can't mix and match; both sides of the cup must contain the same drink type. These split cups are perfect for the indecisive crowd out there. Double the flavors, double the fun and less time spent deciding between two flavors. Essentially, if you can dream it, Mudslingers can do it.

When I roll up to the drive-thru I'm honest with the cheery baristas, telling them I want to try a drink that was 1.) in a fancy split cup 2.) aesthetically pleasing, and 3.) sickly sweet. And boy, did they deliver. The result is a split cup of Red Bull Italian soda with one chamber containing passionfruit and guava syrups and the other featuring blackberry and huckleberry. With one straw on each side of the cup, the flavors alone were mouthwatering; however, the innovative split cup design allows for the immaculate combining of both flavors. Drink from both straws to get the most out of this unique experience and enjoy the fruity jamboree that ensues. (MADISON PEARSON)

THE BLISSFUL WHISK

1612 N. Barker Road Suite 101, Spokane Valley; @theblissfulwhiskspokane

What we got: Happy Days (Red Lotus with white peach, watermelon and dragon fruit) + unofficial bartender's creation (Pink Lotus with sour gummy worm and guava); $3.90 each (12 oz.)

Those venturing to the outskirts of Spokane Valley can satiate their caffeine and sugar fixes in a variety of ways in the welcoming confines of the Blissful Whisk. The bakery and coffee shop nurtures a cozy vibe with its kitschy, home decor sign aesthetic accented by soft pastel colors. And while the display cases are loaded with plenty of fresh baked treats — cinnamon rolls, cakes, cookies, cruffins, and more — this journey was all about getting that liquid sweetness.

While Blissful Whisk's Instagram showcases plenty of colorful frappuccinos, they actually don't have a set menu for these blended treats. They do however have a boatload of sugary syrup, sauce and powder flavors to pep up any drink on their menu (including the frappes). These range from the fruity (Granny Smith apple, huckleberry, pineapple, etc.) to the purely dessert-y (cake batter, toasted marshmallow, blue cotton candy, Ghirardelli white chocolate, etc.) — and they can be blended together for wild combinations.

As a non-coffee person trying to get extremely buzzed right before lunch (they're only open till noon Tuesday through Friday and to 2 pm Saturday), I dove into the shop's robust array of blended drinks using Lotus all-natural energy drinks as the base.

I first had the barista make me her choice of Lotus concoction: Pink Lotus with guava and sour gummy worm flavor boosts. Coming out a translucent but bold shade of pink that would make Hello Kitty proud, the pink and guava combo felt akin to drinking a Starburst with the sour gummy worm addition adding a lip-puckering zest without overpowering the fruity blend. Additionally, a bit like a dirty Arnold Palmer, the Happy Days was a fruit-filled bonanza slightly equivalent to shoving a handful of Brightside Skittles into your mouth. That said, the flavors were still distinguishable rather than a homogenous sweetness, especially the blissful bursts of white peach and watermelon. (SETH SOMMERFELD)

WHITE DOG COFFEE

2909 E. 57th Ave. and other locations; @whitedogcoffee

What we got: Blended peach mango Zipfizz with watermelon syrup and Tajín; $5.25

As an unwavering coffee drinker, I love caffeine. Often I opt for subtly sweet lattes or black coffee with a dash of cream, and have only delved into the energy drink world a few times. Until now, I'd never tried one of the neon colored, sugary concoctions many local coffee stands offer, partly to avoid a sugar crash. Sometimes, though, one can't resist a vibrant orange drink on a sunny day.

Before embarking to the stand, I scrolled through White Dog Coffee's Instagram and stumbled upon a Cinco de Mayo drink inspired by the popular sweet-and-tangy snack of mangos and Tajín, which just so happens to be one of my favorites.

The resulting neon orange beverage is jam-packed with peach and mango, and a refreshing undercurrent of watermelon tying the flavors together. The bright red Tajín sprinkled on top infused the beverage with a slight salty tang as it swirled down to the bottom of the cup.

As Zipfizz is a low-sugar energy drink mix, this beverage wasn't absurdly sweet. It's a great pick-me-up to enjoy on a warm summer day while sparing your teeth from the unpleasant sensations that many cavity-inducing, overly sugary drinks often strike up. (SUMMER SANDSTROM)

BLISS COFFEE CO.

3118 E. Mission Ave. and other locations; @blissfulblends.spokane

What we got: Pina colada huckleberry smoothie ($5.50) and Pink Champagne ($5)

Like everyone else has already said, I, too, prefer my caffeine via espresso or drip (with maybe a little too much flavored creamer). But I have fond memories of my middle school days in the early 2000s, heading to the mall with my best friend and feeling so cool after ordering Italian sodas from a kiosk. I guess the Lotus and Tiki flavored energy syrups — which, by the way, get their kick from coffee beans — so popular at the region's many drive-thru stands are today's version of those overly sweet, creamy sodas.

Wanting to try something on the more "healthy" side, I initially decide on Bliss Coffee Co.'s beautiful ruby-white marbled, piña colada and huckleberry smoothie after seeing it posted on Instagram. While I admit piña colada isn't a flavor I normally would pick, huckleberry definitely is. In hindsight, I sorta regret my choice, because after the huckleberry syrup was gone, the drink lost its appeal. My own fault, but I also doubt there was much actual fruit in this to begin with.

Differing from many of its coffee stand counterparts, Bliss Coffee Co. uses the Tiki Breeze brand of energy drink syrups instead of Lotus for its non-espresso "energy infusions." The Pink Champagne is a concoction of the Pink Tiki (passion fruit), white peach, strawberry and lavender syrup, with the option to make it a mimosa with a splash of orange juice. I do like the effervescence of many Lotus/Tiki drinks, and the flavor profile of this drink was refreshing and summery, but I could only drink this a few sips at a time because of how sweet it is (one serving of Tiki, by the way, has 40 grams of sugar). After waiting for the ice to melt and water it down a little, I was left with mostly orange juice, which "floats" on top, making this pretty drink a sunset-hued, summer-in-a-cup experience.

Speaking on behalf of us all for the final verdict: Traditional coffee drinkers are obviously not the target audience for these super-sweet potions, and that's OK. (CHEY SCOTT) ♦