OISHII
Inventiveness is a hallmark of chef Junior Solis, who designed the hip space, with burnished raw steel, simulated black lacquer and pop-culture paintings of Japanese geisha and dragons. The updated menu features nearly a dozen new rolls, gyoza (fried pork potstickers) and Hawaiian poke, alongside sushi staples like nigiri (rice topped with fish/seafood) and sashimi (just the raw fish/seafood). Oishii's poke ($10) starred a fresh-tasting maguro (red-meat tuna known as bluefin), firm-textured with a zesty marinade of scallion, sesame oil, sesame seeds and sea salt. Plenty to share, it would make a pleasant lunch alongside seaweed salad ($5) and soup. The Oxygen roll ($12), one of many vegetarian offerings, combines asparagus, cucumber, avocado, seaweed salad, scallion and tofu with sesame seeds and lemon soy -- well-matched and refreshing flavors. The John Denver roll ($13) -- tempura shrimp, cream cheese, scallion, avocado and celery with smoked salmon, tempura crunchies and a glaze made with Sriracha chili sauce and honey -- induced a "Rocky Mountain high" with its balance of textures (firm, crunchy, soft) and flavors (hot, sweet, savory). 116 N. First Ave., Sandpoint, Idaho, (208) 263-1406 (CS)
BISTRO ON SPRUCE
The warm atmosphere of the Bistro took the chill off a cool spring weeknight, as did the glass of excellent Mark West Pinot Noir. We chose the New Zealand lamb chops ($19): Three juicy little chops -- perfectly seared outside with a faintly warm center -- came topped with a tangy cracked-pepper mustard sauce. The sauce had plenty of bite and was as good on the roasted baby red potatoes as the lamb, although the lamb was wonderfully tender and well-seasoned even without it. Service was solid. The availability of a lunch menu with goodies like the pulled-pork Cuban sandwich, Mediterranean salad, and grilled portabella with cambozola cheese are compelling reasons to return. 1710 N. Fourth St., Coeur d'Alene, (208) 664-1774 (CS)
HILLS' RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
The same neighborly pub attitude and atmosphere that made Hills' first restaurant a local classic has been transported to its new, airier home. Hills' still serves some of Spokane's most satisfying salads, including the succulent Southern Fried Chicken Salad ($9) with chunks of crunchy-breaded bird enlivened by a zingy mustard dressing -- lettuce comes from Chef Dave Hill's rooftop garden. Chips made from local (Olsen Farm) potatoes can accompany any one of the ten burgers or sandwiches, but the restaurant's premium offerings are their steaks, a choice of six different cuts ($10-$25) and 14 freshly made sauces ($1.50-$6) ranging from bistro (Gorgonzola) to cuisine (B & eacute;arnaise). And if the day's menu includes fresh sorbets or ice creams, save room -- Hills' makes them from scratch. 401 W. Main Ave., 747-3946 (MD)
