Cast a quick glance into the front windows of Francaise and you might wonder if it's a florist shop. Clustered around the vestibule are lush Swiss cheese plants and other person-sized potted greenery. Peer farther into the interior and you'll spot a spider plant or two dividing the bench seats. Next to the ornately framed pictures and mirrors, pothos vines trail down the walls.
Front-and-center flora aren't a common restaurant design element, as Eat Good Group owner Adam Hegsted readily admits. That's one of the ways Francaise distinguishes itself, even among his local culinary constellation of five specialized eateries.
"Because you don't have plants in restaurants that often, right off the bat, it gives it this really comfortable vibe when you walk in," he says. "It adds a little bit of vitality and texture to this space, which is tall and all wood and brick."
Adding to the sense of homestyle warmth is the lighting from wall sconces and pendant wicker lamps. Their golden glow illuminates a large floral mural with the base of the Eiffel Tower at its center. On the same brick wall, attentive diners might even spot the faded lettering of Casper Fry, the restaurant that occupied this space in the South Perry District before Francaise took its place two years ago.
The atmosphere here — a carefully curated mélange perhaps best described as "Francophile urban rustic" — is just as important as the food. And the thought process behind both of them is similar. They're meant to evoke associations with Parisian life and French cuisine without trying to be a 1:1 imitation.
"We're not shooting for the most authentic French restaurant we can. We're shooting for something that speaks to all of that collective experience. As with all of our restaurants, it's also a touch of comfort food," Hegsted says.
That blend of fine dining and the familiar is evident on both the brunch and dinner menus. Entrées include poulet rôti à la truffe ($38), a roasted half-chicken stuffed with rich truffle butter; steelhead bouillabaisse ($33), which features a pan-seared filet perched atop roast potatoes surrounded by clams and a tomato-saffron broth; and dry-aged pork ribeye ($38), a hearty bone-in cut that's grilled and then topped with crispy fried onions in a dark bordelaise sauce made with Bordeaux-style red wine, butter, marrow and sauce demi-glacé.
Alongside these traditional French dishes are the transatlantic cousins of popular American staples. Steak frites ($36) is, well, steak and fries, though at Francaise the tender sliced beef is finished with cognac-bleu cheese butter. And at its heart, the macaroni gratin ($24) isn't too far removed from mac 'n' cheese. The haute cuisine twist on this dish comes from the full-flavored truffle cheese sauce and comte cheese topping, with a side of succulent duck confit being an optional extra.
Nor does the decadence stop with the main course. Beignets ($12), the French take on a powdered donut, are made fresh and served warm with a side of homemade jam. Another dessert, the chocolate hazelnut terrine ($12), is multiple layers of cocoa-infused indulgence.
"The idea is that there's a little bit for everybody. We offer caviar and foie gras, but there's also a burger on the menu," Hegsted says. It's wryly called "Le burger" ($20) and channels its French inspiration via raclette cheese and Dijon mustard.
928 S. Perry St.
Open Mon-Thu 3-9 pm, Fri 3-10 pm, Sat 9 am-10 pm, Sun 9 am-9 pm
francaisespokane.com 509-315-4153
Francaise head chef John Wilson says the menu is equally approachable for the well-traveled diners who love escargot as well as those who still think of it as an exotic delicacy. It also allows for a mix of authenticity and creativity in the kitchen.
"Classic French cooking definitely steers us, but we're adding our own spin. It gives us a chance to touch on a lot of variety of techniques. We have some of the simpler [dishes], and then we're able to delve into the more technical side of French cooking with the complicated sauces in our entrées, which is where we're really able to shine."
While you won't yet find a sommelier at Francaise (general manager and oenophile Nicole Seaman is currently pursuing certification), you will find a carefully curated wine list that just earned a 2024 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence on account of the diversity that it captures in under 100 bottles.
On repeat visits, you'll also discover new or revamped dishes that incorporate seasonal local ingredients. For example, as our region enters late autumn and winter, that translates to more dishes with squashes, apples and pears. In Hegsted's words, it's his way of providing "food that really speaks to Spokane" — albeit with an intriguing French accent. ♦
