Everything's bigger in Montana, including these three go-to resorts just across the Continental Divide

click to enlarge Everything's bigger in Montana, including these three go-to resorts just across the Continental Divide
glacierworld.com photo
Big Sky means big snow.

WHITEFISH MOUNTAIN RESORT
Whitefish, Montana • skiwhitefish.com
2,353 vertical feet • 113 runs

In December 1947, somebody up on Big Mountain overlooking Whitefish Lake strung a rope on an old Model T wheel and started pulling skiers up the side of the hill. So this year marks the 75th anniversary of what is now Whitefish Mountain Resort. They've come a long way. On Dec. 30, 2022, they opened their new six-pack, high-speed quad — the Snow Ghost Express. There's so much to love about Whitefish Mountain Resort, but one of the coolest things is that it's ludicrously close to downtown Whitefish and all its amenities — just 7 miles away.

And for locals used to making the trek to Glacier National Park, we know it's not far — just a 4 1/2 hour drive. But if you really want to go old school, ride the train! The Northern Pacific Railroad arrived in Whitefish in 1904; the rails are the reason the town exists. For as low as like $30 one way (if you plan ahead), you can still ride that same track from Spokane to Whitefish. It departs at 1 am and arrives at 7, winding through Sandpoint, Bonners Ferry and Libby along the way. But don't oversleep, as the Empire Builder will take you all the way to Chicago if you're not careful.

SNOWBOWL SKI
Missoula, Montana • montanasnowbowl.com
2,600 vertical feet • 48 runs

Anyone who regularly skis at either Silver Mountain or Lookout Pass can attest that the drive out on I-90 is part of the attraction. No switchbacks or don't-look-down corners. Snowbowl in Montana has that same charm, although it is a 12-mile trip up from Missoula — just take Exit 101 off I-90. And at only just over three hours from Spokane, it qualifies as a getaway without too much time in the car. The resort is on the smaller side, but still charming with a good amount of snow (300 inches) each year.

In this age of heated lift seats, Snowbowl is a mom-and-pop throwback, with vintage Riblet two-seaters the norm. Still, it packs a ton of verts into a tight footprint — in fact, when it opened in 1962, it had the biggest vertical drop in the Pacific Northwest. It's not considered a great place for beginners. But the Last Run Inn's wood-fired pizzas and bloody marys are attractions all their own. For Inland Northwesterners, this getaway's also about Missoula, one of the coolest Western towns around — filled with fun breweries (Conflux, Tamarack), bars (Plonk, the Rhino) and great places to eat (Five on Black for Peruvian, Catalyst for breakfast, the Pie Hole for pizza).

click to enlarge Everything's bigger in Montana, including these three go-to resorts just across the Continental Divide
Jeff Engerbretson photo
All types of skiers are welcome in Montana — but especially pros.

BIG SKY RESORT
Big Sky, Montana • bigskyresort.com
4,350 vertical feet • 300 runs

All of America seems to be obsessed with all things Bozeman via the uber-popular TV show Yellowstone, but skiers have been coming for years — to jump off to some epic Northern Rockies skiing. Bridger Bowl is the local mom-and-pop nonprofit just outside town, but down along the way to the actual Yellowstone National Park is Big Sky Resort — and not too far from Spokane (about seven hours' drive, with Missoula being the midpoint). As our own Bob Legasa put it back in 2021, "The Big Couloir on Lone Peak is legendary — a triple black diamond run through a 1,400-vertical-foot couloir located almost directly under the Lone Peak Tram. When you're going to ride the Big Couloir, you're required to sign in with ski patrol, wear an avalanche transceiver and ski with a buddy."

And after 27 years of planning, 2023-24 is the season when they'll open the new Lone Peak Tram, where you will disembark near a stunning viewing platform — with a glass floor!

Even though it's known for its challenging terrain, about half the mountain is rated for beginner or intermediate, and just below Lone Peak you'll find Mountain Village with plenty of options for after the lifts stop running. Montana Jack and Westward Social are both solid choices (among many), but you could also jump in a snowcat and head up for a chef-prepared, three-course meal in... wait for it... a yurt! Yep, the Montana Dinner Yurt is at 7,500 feet and ready to serve you. ♦

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Ted S. McGregor Jr.

Ted S. McGregor, Jr. grew up in Spokane and attended Gonzaga Prep high school and the University of the Washington. While studying for his Master's in journalism at the University of Missouri, he completed a professional project on starting a weekly newspaper in Spokane. In 1993, he turned that project into reality...